Erbil City
Erbil city, which is considered from the main cities of Turkmeneli or the Iraqi Turkmenistan, has taken many names during its long history, which dates back to the 6th millennium BC.1 Its silent letters remained stable, while the vowels mainly changed.
The names
Urbilum and Erbila can be found in the correspondences of Shulgi, during
Sumerian period. Erbilim was the name of city during the third Ur Empire.2,
3
In the writings of Babylon and Assyrian, the city called Arba illo, or Arba
ilu and Ishtar Erbla. It was an important religious center including the
Temple of Ishtar.4, 5
It is reported Erbira in the miniatures of the Persians. From the excavation
plats, it is found that the city called Arbela since 331 BC. This name is
sometimes given to the battle fought at Gaugamela, some 100 km away, in
which Alexander the Great defeated Darius III.6 The name Erbl was
mentioned in the Chaldaen and Arab’s sources.7
Islam historians ibn al-Athir, ibn al-Kathir and ibn al-Khaldun named the
city Erbl. The Old Testament mentioned Erbil by the name Erbaila.8
The name Erbil expected to have been used early in the second millennium at
the time of Turkmen Seljuk Empire. According to the Turkmen writer Shakir
Sabir al-Zabit the word Erbil is formed from two Turkmen words; Er, which
means Soldier or brave, and bil, which means you should know. Therefore,
Erbil as a compound means "you should know that he is brave".
The name Hauwler appeared in the last century and during the second Kurdish
emigration stage, when Turkmeneli exposed massively to emigration of the
Kurds.
History9-18
Erbil city is considered from the ancient cities of the world. The first
agricultural village in the history was established in Erbil. It has been
continuously inhabited for about 8000 years.
The great Empires of the human history had ruled Erbil city. Subarians and
the Gutians dominated the city around 3000 BC. In 2150 BC, the city held by
Kutians after defeating the Acadians. From 2050 - 1950 BC, the city ruled by
the Sumerians. Kashians caught Erbil city in 1600. It became the capital of
Assyrians and the temples of the Gods Ishtar and Asshur. During this period,
drink water was brought by the pipes made of pot from the Bastura river to
the Citadel, which the distance is about 20 km. Kingdom of Eashnunna took
hold of Erbil in 1850 BC. Afterward, Hammurabi invaded it. The
Hurrian-Mitannian state controlled Erbil Between the 15th - 14th century BC.
The Assyrians liberated country in 1365 BC. Medes the Persians, the Greeks
and the Parthians held on Erbil until 226 AD. The great Iskander conquered
the city in 331 BC. Many architectural developments took place during Greek
period, particularly by the king Salukis who rebuilt the Kerkuk citadel as
well. Erbil was administration center during the Sassanian era. The city
held by the Arabs in 642 AD and after the Qadisiyya battle.
The establishment of Turkmen in Erbil City dates back to the Abbasids
period, which is increased with the entrance of Buyids with troops formed
mainly from the Azerbaijanis Turkmen in 945. With the establishment of great
Seljuk Empire and Iraqi Seljuk state increased the number of Turkmen in
northern Iraq.
The city annexed to the Atabegian’s (Zangids) reign in Mosul in 1127. In
1144 Zeynuddin Ali Küçük founded the independent Erbil Atabegian’s state.
During this period Erbil city got the only independent status in the
history. Afterwards, this city remained keeping its power under the rule of
Mosul Atabegian’s until 1232. At this period, the constructional, cultural
and social flourishing took place.19, 20 During his sovereignty,
Muzaffaraddin Gokburu constructed several buildings in the city, which
stands until now. The Broken minaret and Qaysseria bazaar, which were built
by hem, is considered from the important historical monuments. He conquered
the small states in the region and widened his principality. The
geographical term Shehrezur, which was extended from the Greater Zab river
to the boundaries of Suleymaniyya governorate and included also the present
Tavuk district and Dohuk governorate, was added to the land of Erbil Atabegs.
At the time of Gokburu, Muzaffereddin University (madrasahs) was founded.
In 1232 Erbil fell under the control of the Kipchak Turkmen.21, 22
In 1258 AD and after a one yearlong siege, the Moguls invaded the city, and
their occupation continued until 1410 AD. Jalayirids ruled Erbil from 1337,
which were defeated by Timur in 1401. Between 1410 and 1508, the Kara
Koyunlu and Ak Koyunlu Turkmen states alternated in rule of the city.23,
24
In 1501, Shah Ýsmail managed to get the Turkmen groups of Ustaçlý, Rumlu,
Musullu, Tekeli, Bayburtlu, Karadaðlý, Dulkadýrlý, Karamanlý, Varsak and
Avþar on his side and founded Safavids state. In 1508, he annexed Erbil city
to Safavids state. 25, 26. 27, 28
In 1534 the Ottoman Sultan Suleyman Magnificent completed the conquest of
the north and central Iraq. In the first half of the 19th century, Erbil
city was administratively related to Baghdad province. In 1870, the city
annexed to the Shehrezur Sanjak (district), which was part of the
independent Mosul wilayet (province).25
In 1879 Mosul wilayet was separated from Baghdad wilayet. Then Erbil became
a town within the Sanjaq (province) of Sharazur in the Mosul wilayet.
29
The Ottomans ruled Iraq until 1918; later on the British army controlled the
city. On November 11, 1918 the governorate of Erbil was established, and
both districts of Köy Sanjak and Rawanduz and sub-district Qush Tepe were
annexed to it. In 1923, Ahmed Efendi Ottoman was appointed as the first
governor of the city.
Erbil City is located on the center of a hill called Erbil plain, which is
414 meter higher than the sea level. Erbil city is 87 Kms to the South East
of the city of Mosul, 96 Kms to the North of Kerkuk City. It is located on
latitude 36.11, longtitude 42.2.
At the west of the city located Qara Chog mountains chain, which continuous
toward the north east of the city. The highest top of this series is 874,5
and 3000 meters in the west and east, respectively. Kandinawah plain located
at the south of the city, which is separated from the Erbil plain by Zurga
Zirau hills. Toward the east of the city, the plain of Bastura and Dardawan
Mountains valleys, which the height is 1475 meters, are present. At the
north of the city Birmam and Sefin mountains are present; the height of
these mountains is about 1475 meters.
The boundaries of Erbil governorate are Mosul and Duhok governorates at the
west and north, Iran and Suleymaniyya at the east, Kerkuk governorate at the
south.
English governor of the Erbil district in 1920 described Erbil City; “Erbil,
with its battlemented heights and its great solitary minaret presents an
unique appearance. The upper town, built on a huge circular mound commends
the surrounding plain like a vast fort, the outer walls being lofty and
containing only small irregular windows like loopholes, except where some of
the rich aghast have constructed balconies” “ the streets within are very
rough and narrow, and cannot be used for wheeled traffic” “the lower town
clusters round the south and east sides of the mound, here is the bazaar”.
30
Erbil city is well known with its fertile lands and productive plains.
Shamamik, which is rich in water sources, is consistently fertile land.
Kandinawah soil is as fertile as that of shamamik. The Erbil plain is a
great expanse stretches about 50 miles from the greater to the lesser Zab,
with a width of some 25 miles from Zurga Ziraw to the foothills proper. The
main southern portion of the plain, which was occupied by Kurdish Diazi
tribes in the 19th century, was described by the English governor in 1920 as
follows: “In spring the traveler may stand on one of the ancient mounds
which dots its surface and, except for the white roads, as far as he can see
the whole country is under cultivation, either green with the standing crops
or ploughed ready for the autumn sowing”. 31
Citadels are found almost in all big cities of the Iraqi Turkmenstan. Erbil
citadel, which is considered the symbol of Erbil city, is ancient as the
city of Erbil. In the early 19th century, it was forming the whole Erbil
city. It is 26 meters above the surrounding ground level and it has an area
of 102,000 square meters. Atabegs constructed a tunnel-contained rampart
around the citadel.
The citadel constitutes 3 neighborhoods: Top hane, Saray and Tekke. It has
two major and one minor gate. The southern entrance is called Old Entrance
passing to the bazaar. The northern entrance is called New Entrance or Ahmet
Aga Entrance passing in under the old Saray.
When the Erbil city was formed only from the Citadel, these entrances had an
iron doors32 to protect the city from Kurdish incursions to which
all the Turkmen villages on the Kurdish line were repeatedly subjected.33
The minor entrance is uncovered sandy path, which is located in the Saray
neighborhood and guides to the Hanaka neighborhood behind the New Museum. At
the time being, there are 5 mosques, two religious abodes and one bath in
the citadel. The Grand mosque, which is considered from the oldest mosques
in the Erbil City, was built in a Turkish fashion.
The ancient citadel is known with its Turkmen-style houses mistreated. Up to
the beginning of this century it served as a cultural and administrative
center, where elegant buildings stood and prosperous Turkmen families lived.
Many buildings are either structurally unsound or collapsing outright.
Erbil region is rich in water, the ground formed from a hilly land, which
the height of the undulating increases gradually towards the East north,
where high mountains are formed. There are many plains at the south and west
of the Erbil governorate. The geological structure of the Erbil plain is
suitable for artesian water. Boring of heavy rainfall water into the lower
beds large supplies of water would be trapped, and rise to the surface under
their own pressure. The main feature of the Erbil district is the kehriz.
The weather of the Erbil city is very hot mainly for only one month. It rain
from November to May. The heavier rain fall in the later half of December
and all January. The winter is mild and snow falls rarely. Hot weather
experienced from July to August.
The country is poor mineralogical, possessing no known veins of valuable
ore. Oil oozes out in some place on the banks of the Greater Zab, but the
wells are not properly worked. 34
Population
The official governmental census was achieved for the first time in Iraq in
the 1930s. Thereafter, the censuses organized every 10 years and in the
seventh year of each decade. The first few censuses were achieved in primary
manners. The censuses have been relatively better organized in the second
half of the last century. Due to the sever conflicts between the
nationalities and religious sects, the composition of Iraqi community has
been never honestly estimated.
The origin of Erbil Turkmen is not Ottoman, but it is generally inferred
that it must be descended from a line of colonies settled by the Seljuks.
Large number of Azerbaijan Turkmen had settled in Erbil city by Nadir Shah
in 1732. The grace and elegance of some Erbil Turkmen approximate more
nearly to the Azerbaijanis, but being all from pure Sunnite sect is against
this theory. 35
In spite of the large differences between the sources, the majority reported
that the population of Erbil city (Table 1) was between 4000 and 6000 at the
second half of the 19th century. 36, 37
Al-Munshi al-Baghdadi visited Erbil city in 1822 and estimated the total
number of houses as 5 thousands. He considered the houses of citadel 1000.
If the average family number of one house considered 5 souls, then the
population of Erbil city can be predicted to be 25,000.38, 39
Willima R. Hay mentioned that the chief town in the area was Erbil city and
numbered to 14,000 souls. 40

Table 1.
The population of Erbil city during the 19th and 20th century
|
Date |
Population of Erbil City |
|
1837 |
4,500 - 5,000 |
|
1847 |
5,000 - 6,000 |
|
1916 |
5,000 - 10,000 |
Table 2
The population of Erbil Governorate during the 19th and 20th century 41
|
Date |
Population of Erbil Governorate |
|
1947 |
27,036 |
|
1957 |
39,913 |
|
1965 |
90,956 |
|
1970 |
101,779 |
|
1977 |
193,588 |
|
1980 |
209,000 |
|
1990s |
800,000 |
|
Decades |
Newly established neighbourhoods |
|
1960s |
Azadi and Iskan |
|
1970s |
Beste
Piyaze, Kawani, Carpet fabric quarter, Setakan, Goran, Dairy fabric
quarter, |
|
1980s |
Hay al-Shurta,
Shorosh, Seba Nisan, Poultry Houses, Cigarette fabric houses, |
|
1990s |
Quarter 92 Quarter 94 Quarter 96 |
The
field studies and social survey, which was performed by the planning
directorate in 1975, considered the percentage of Kurdish emigrant in Erbil
city as 17%.41
Western powers helped the Kurds to establish the Kurdish Regional Government
based in Erbil city in northern Iraq, which is virtually independent from
Baghdad. In the meantime, they ignored the rights of Erbil's Turkmen
population, which makes half of the city and accounts for 13% of all the
Turkmen in Iraq, by placing them under the mercy of the Kurdish Regional
Government.
Kurdistan's Democratic Party has been the governing authority in Erbil City
since August 1996 when Saddam Hussein sent his army to Erbil to oust their
rival, the Patriotic Union of Kurdistan, and to destroy the opposition
headquarters, specifically the Turkmen. Hundreds of renowned individuals
where executed. Since then, Kurdistan's Democratic Party has adopted similar
methods for oppression and assimilation of the Turkmen, which Saddam
practices in his domain. Clashes and frictions are frequent between the KDP
forces and the Iraqi Turkmen Front.
The historical milestone of Erbil city:
I. Landmarks
A. Citadel (see above).
B. The Muzaffariyya Minaret: It is a great brick minaret about 110 ft. high
and 12 ft. in diameter at the base stands in the fields of western edge of
the town. The minaret stands on an octagonal base, the structure is made of
brick masonry with gypsum. It has two doorways each leading to a staircase,
which goes up helically inside the minaret in opposite direction. Its top
was damaged leaving an uneven stump. Traces remain of brightly colored tiles
and there is a certain amount of rough ornament. It is eaten a way at the
base and will eventually fall if efforts are not made to preserve it. No
other visible trace exists of the mosque of which it must have once formed
part. It is a ruminant of the Madrasah (university), which was built by the
Atabegian era by Muzaffaraddin Gokburu. There located a tomb and one of the
biggest graveyards of Erbil city, which have the same name.
C. Karinçağa Mond: This archaeological site lies in the center of Erbil City
opposite to the Erbil municipality house. The excavations explored ruminants
of ancient houses, temples and many graves. The analysis of pottery pieces,
clay statuettes, necklaces, precious stones and flat seals dated the history
of this site back to 5th and 4th millennium BC.
D. The Qaysaria-Bazaar: It is located at the south of the Erbil citadel. M.
Gokburu, built quarter Bazaar in the 12th century. It is rebuilt in the 19th
century. Willima R. Hay portrayed Erbil Bazaar as an extensive containing 2
fine arcades, in good repair and two others in ruins, but likely soon to be
built. The quarter Bazaar of Erbil City is all situated in one area in the
middle of the city south of the citadel. Its architecture is similar to the
traditional Turkish Bazaars. Qaysaria-Bazaar includes many sections:
Jewelers, Shoemakers, Carpenters, Spices, Tinsmith, Cloth merchants and
Butchers.
II. Important catacombs
A. In the citadel:
B. Out of citadel:
III.
Historical mosques
A. The Grand Mosque of citadel: It is the oldest mosque in Erbil City,
located in the center of citadel opposite to the historical Citadel bath.
Originally, it might have been a church. It was renovated many times.
B. Sheikh-Allah Mosque: This mosque was, originally, a religious abode (Takia)
of the Kadiri doctrine. It was renovated in the 1880 AD, and in the 1960s.
C. The mosques in the Bazaar:
D.
The Khalidiya mosque: A mosque situated in Hanaka quarter, nearby of flea
market. It is attributed to a counseller of al-Naqshabandi sect. This mosque
was build at the beginning of the 19th century.
E. Sheikh-Choli mosque and graveyard: It is situated in al-Arab quarter. It
was built in1883 AD. Choli mosque is a large mosque in which there are two
big halls for mornings.
F. al-Mufti Mosque: It is attributed to Mulla Abdurrahman, the Mufti of
Erbil City, in the last Ottoman era. He succeeded his father Mulla Isaac in
1876 AD. The mosque is situated in Iskan quarter. (A mufti is an official
expounder of Islamic Law).
G. Mullah Mohammed Derabrushi which called also Piriþin al-Arab quarter.
H. Hac Mahmut Allaf mosque, which is located near the Erbil governorate
building.
I. Haji Mawlud al-Erbili: which has a brickwork minaret.
J. Awkaf mosque located in Tayrawa neighborhood.
K. Hasan Bezzaz mosque located behind the bank.
L. Saylo mosque on the road to Mosul.
IV. Historical Churches
A. St. George’s church: It is situated in Shorish quarter in Erbil City. It
was built in 1985.
B. The Chaldeans Church: which is located in al-Arab quarter. This church
was, originally, a house transformed to a church.
V. Museums:
A. The Civilization Museum: the Directorate General of Antiquities
supervises it. This historical houses relic from different pre-historic and
historic eras.
B. The Folkloric Museum: It is an interesting museum in the citadel housing
exhibits representing the old heritage of the people of Erbil, i.e., crafts,
handicrafts, folk tools and domestic utensil etc.
VI. Factories:
A. Textile
B. Cigarettes
C. Handmade Carpets
D. Marble
E. The Carpentry Workshop
F. Dairy
G. Fodder
H. Asphalt
I. Bricks
Source: KERKUK CITY WEB SITE